After spending so many wonderful years with your faithful companion, most pet owners feel they owe it to their dog to make life comfortable for him during his golden years.
But how can you tell when the golden years have arrived? Depending on the breed of your dog, he will grow and mature at different speeds. As a general rule to follow, the larger the dog, the faster the maturing process will be. Some prefer to follow the times seven rule, in which you will multiply the real age of the dog and multiply it by seven to get the human equivalent. Based on this information a dog that is seven years old, would be considered to be forty nine in human terms, and entering his golden years. When a dog turns eight, extra care for his eating habits and hygiene is necessary.
As a responsible pet owner you should be able to read the signs of an aging dog. The most apparent sign of aging is the lack of enthusiasm and energy. Your dog will appear to be tired more often, and spend more time taking a nap than anything else. Older dogs will become stiff after playing dog games or waking up. It is important to tell the difference between the results and consequences of old age and being affected by a disease or health condition, such as arthritis. If your dog only seems shaken soon after waking up, or standing, it would be part of his normal activity. However, if he howls or appears to be in pain for no reason at all, it may be a sign for an ailment out of the ordinary.
One of the best things you can give your senior dog is comfortable bedding. Nowadays, there are more and more products available that improve on the living conditions of aging dogs. The materials used in the production of these beds include memory foam, eggshell foam and often have washable covers in case your pet has an accident.
Periodic exercise and outdoor activity, such as playing mellow dog games, become an important part of a senior dog's life. Regular exercise will improve your dog's blood circulation, prevent weight issues and fight arthritis problems. Just remember to pace yourself and keep the rhythm. A walk in the park may be all your senior companion needs to be in shape.
As your pet friend becomes older, his nutritional needs will change. Make sure you select appropriate food to dogs in his particular age range. Generally speaking, dog food made for older dogs will contain fewer calories. Most dog food manufacturers produce special dog food branded for aging dogs.
A common issue with aging dogs is an increase in weight, due to slower metabolism levels. A quick test to determine if your dog has a weight problem is rubbing your fingers against his ribs, if you can't feel them, it means your dog could use a diet.
Perhaps the most important measure to be taken with your senior companion is the regular visit to the veterinarian. With all measures in place, there is no reason why you and your dog cannot enjoy his final years in peace and joy.
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Some Considerations As Your Dog Gets Older
Dogs age faster than we do unfortunately, and as dog lovers we may outlive several of "man's best friends." I know I certainly I have had several wonderful canine companions in my life that I've outlived so far. As your dog ages there are several things you can do to make their lives more pleasant, just as you change your life somewhat as you age, hopefully making it more pleasant. For example, at almost 50, I don't stay out late partying and chasing the opposite sex as often as when I was 20 (and when I do my wife gets mad!). I recover more slowly and gain weight more easily too. My habits have changed and your dogs do too.
You owe it too your dog to make their life as pleasant, easy, as well as healthy as they age. Here are a few ways to do exactly that.
You may want to change your dog's diet to a food for older dogs. They have different nutritional requirements and usually are less active just like older humans, needing fewer calories. Otherwise they will tend to put on extra weight which is unhealthy, just like for humans. There are plenty of dog foods designed for older and less active dogs.
They also need activity as they age, but may become more lethargic just as humans do. I take Tyler for a walk a couple times a day to get him some needed exercise. When he was young we let him run around, but now unless we make a point of it, he'd rather just sleep or lounge. He is very happy to engage with activity though as long as we come along too.
You dog may also need supplements and pills when they age, just as humans do. I take two pills a day, unlike when I was younger, and so does my dog Tyler. His vet has suggested something for his arthritis and we add two tablets to his breakfast every day. I strongly suggest going with their vets recommendations here.
Older dogs are also less nimble and less sure footed. Tyler has trouble sometimes getting into the car. Eventually we may get him a ramp although he is doing OK here right now with some coaxing and sometimes just a little help.
Stairs are also hard for older dogs for several reasons including arthritis and other degenerative diseases. You can make stairs far less difficult by making them non slip with rugs.
You owe it too your dog to make their life as pleasant, easy, as well as healthy as they age. Here are a few ways to do exactly that.
You may want to change your dog's diet to a food for older dogs. They have different nutritional requirements and usually are less active just like older humans, needing fewer calories. Otherwise they will tend to put on extra weight which is unhealthy, just like for humans. There are plenty of dog foods designed for older and less active dogs.
They also need activity as they age, but may become more lethargic just as humans do. I take Tyler for a walk a couple times a day to get him some needed exercise. When he was young we let him run around, but now unless we make a point of it, he'd rather just sleep or lounge. He is very happy to engage with activity though as long as we come along too.
You dog may also need supplements and pills when they age, just as humans do. I take two pills a day, unlike when I was younger, and so does my dog Tyler. His vet has suggested something for his arthritis and we add two tablets to his breakfast every day. I strongly suggest going with their vets recommendations here.
Older dogs are also less nimble and less sure footed. Tyler has trouble sometimes getting into the car. Eventually we may get him a ramp although he is doing OK here right now with some coaxing and sometimes just a little help.
Stairs are also hard for older dogs for several reasons including arthritis and other degenerative diseases. You can make stairs far less difficult by making them non slip with rugs.
Friday, July 30, 2010
For the People Who Want to Stop Dog Aggression
Sometimes aggression in the dogs becomes headache for the owners. Usually the visitors or the relatives have to pay a huge price for the aggression. Thus every owner wants to stop dog aggression. So here are some special tips and steps to stop this aggression.
Making your dog less volatile and aggressive to some situations by giving him some training or making him habituated and accustomed to the environment you live in is the very first and important step in stopping your dog's aggression. Then palliating the dog when he is showing some signs of aggression can stop your pet's aggression.
Making the dog feel he is one of the family member also helps in stop aggression. I have myself experienced the fact. Whenever I used to come home after college or anywhere my dog used to run at me on sight and used to lick me madly. It was a great experience. That was like giving toll for entering my or rather his (dog's) house. He never used to settle down unless I cuddle him or caress him. That must have given him pleasure and a feeling of importance.
Getting the pet treated from a veterinary doctor also reduces or stops dog's aggression. Sometimes due to some illness or ailment dogs feel like getting aggressive or start growling often. So treat the dog for his ailments so as to make him comfortable and cozy.
Also some breeds of the dogs are aggressive only in their nature, so one has to check the breed. Like a Doberman dog is genetically and instinctively an aggressive dog. Or some dogs like barking only, or they just bark only and never show other aggressive stuffs like running behind the prey and all. So according to the need one will have to choose the breed. Or the other option is to train the dog to behave in proper way.
If you want a dog to keep your gates safe, then go for the Doberman kind of breed. If you want a sweet companion select accordingly. This will help in stop dog aggression. Because aggression comes in them because of the change in role they have played earlier and are now supposed to play. A Doberman will never be a less aggressive dog like some other breeds are.
Avoid the places and situation wherein you feel that your dog can be aggressive. Sometimes going before a same breed or street dog can stimulate a dog and he can behave aggressively. So don't take your dog to such locations if it can be avoided. This is one of the methods which are generally followed by majority of the people around the world. Because this is a safe bet. As avoiding such situations will save some extra work.
Thus there are in numerous and myriad ways to stop dog's aggression. But the general ones have been mentioned here. Following to which will help you in make to stop dog aggression. And that is what every owner wants to do, stop his/her dog's aggression. Follow above steps and get rid of the headache.
Making your dog less volatile and aggressive to some situations by giving him some training or making him habituated and accustomed to the environment you live in is the very first and important step in stopping your dog's aggression. Then palliating the dog when he is showing some signs of aggression can stop your pet's aggression.
Making the dog feel he is one of the family member also helps in stop aggression. I have myself experienced the fact. Whenever I used to come home after college or anywhere my dog used to run at me on sight and used to lick me madly. It was a great experience. That was like giving toll for entering my or rather his (dog's) house. He never used to settle down unless I cuddle him or caress him. That must have given him pleasure and a feeling of importance.
Getting the pet treated from a veterinary doctor also reduces or stops dog's aggression. Sometimes due to some illness or ailment dogs feel like getting aggressive or start growling often. So treat the dog for his ailments so as to make him comfortable and cozy.
Also some breeds of the dogs are aggressive only in their nature, so one has to check the breed. Like a Doberman dog is genetically and instinctively an aggressive dog. Or some dogs like barking only, or they just bark only and never show other aggressive stuffs like running behind the prey and all. So according to the need one will have to choose the breed. Or the other option is to train the dog to behave in proper way.
If you want a dog to keep your gates safe, then go for the Doberman kind of breed. If you want a sweet companion select accordingly. This will help in stop dog aggression. Because aggression comes in them because of the change in role they have played earlier and are now supposed to play. A Doberman will never be a less aggressive dog like some other breeds are.
Avoid the places and situation wherein you feel that your dog can be aggressive. Sometimes going before a same breed or street dog can stimulate a dog and he can behave aggressively. So don't take your dog to such locations if it can be avoided. This is one of the methods which are generally followed by majority of the people around the world. Because this is a safe bet. As avoiding such situations will save some extra work.
Thus there are in numerous and myriad ways to stop dog's aggression. But the general ones have been mentioned here. Following to which will help you in make to stop dog aggression. And that is what every owner wants to do, stop his/her dog's aggression. Follow above steps and get rid of the headache.
Training Your Puppy Proper Socialization Skills and Winning His Respect and Confidence
Although it is definitely necessary to love your new puppy, it's also vital the puppy dog respect you and see you as his leader. Failure to gain the status of the dog can make a dog that is ill-behaved, beyond control and even threatening. It's very important for any new dog owner, whether working with a twelve week old puppy dog or a 12 year old dog, to immediately get the status of the animal.
That doesn't imply using coarse or dangerous handling techniques, but it implies letting the dog know you're in charge of the situation. As an interesting point, the dog will appreciate your taking the job of tutor and coach as you start your coaching session.
The heel command is among the most elementary, and one of the simplest to educate.
Begin by putting the dog or young dog in a correctly fitted coaching collar. Be certain to follow the directions for fitting and sizing the colour to make sure that it works as intended. Start to walk and permit your dog to stroll beside you. If the dog starts to pull, delicately pull on the leash.
This in turn will tighten the coaching collar and correct the dog. I the opposite problem happens and the dog lags behind, the owner should delicately inspire it till it is walking beside the owner. Once the dog has mastered heeling at a decent pace, the owner should slow their pace and permit the dog to adjust together with it.
Ultimately, walking along and changing pace regularly will bolster the lesson the dog must walk at the heel of the handler. From heeling, the very next step should always be to halt on command. As you are walking, stop and watch you dog. Others may need the reminder of the leash and the coaching collar.
After the halt on command has been mastered, the handler should inspire the dog to sit on command too. Often, after this walk, halt, sit process has been done a couple of times, the dog will start to sit on his very own every time he stops. Naturally, it's very important to provide great praise, and maybe even a treat, each time the dog does as he's expected.
Socialising your Dog
A properly socialised dog is a totally happy dog, and fantastic to be around for both humans and animals. A dog that is correctly socialised will not be afraid of nor assertive towards either animals or humans. A properly socialised dog will take each novel experience and impulse in walk, and not become afraid or pushy.
Incorrectly socialised dogs are also unable to acclimatize to new scenarios. The standard situation like a trip to the vets or to a chum's house can quickly stress the dog out and lead to all sorts of issues. Socialization is best done when the tiny dog is intensely young, perhaps around 12 weeks of age. There are so definite do's and don't when it boils down to properly socializing any young dog. Make every one of the socialization events as pleasing and non threatening for the puppydog as practical. If a puppy's first experience with any novel experience is an evil one, it will be tough to undo that in the puppy's mind. In a considerable number of cases, an early stress can morph into a dread that will endure for an entire life. It is better to take it slowly and avoid having the baby dog become frightened or hurt. Try inviting your buddies over to meet the new puppy. Try and uncloak the tiny dog to places where they will be tons of people and heaps of numerous activity going on.
Take the baby dog for frequent short rides in the vehicle. Introduce your tiny pup to a variety of items that would be unfamiliar. The pup should be exposed to standard items like bags, boxes, vacuum cleaners, umbrellas, hats, as an example. Permit and spur the dog dog to explore these things and see that he has almost nothing to fear from them. Get the dog used to a variety of objects by re-arranging familiar ones.
Your groomer and your vet with many thanks for this.
Introduce the baby dog to standard items round the house, for instance steps. Also introduce the baby dog dog to the collar and leash, so he is going to be alright with those things. There are naturally some things to keep clear of when socializing a puppydog.
Don't place the tiny young dog on the ground when strange animals are present.
When the baby dog shows fear, it is common to try to sooth it, but this can bolster the fear based behavior and worsen it. Since biting is frequently a fear based behavior, reinforcing fear can create issues with biting. Don't force or rush the socialization process. It's important to allow the tiny dog to socialize at his own pace. There is a short window in which to start the socialization process.
That doesn't imply using coarse or dangerous handling techniques, but it implies letting the dog know you're in charge of the situation. As an interesting point, the dog will appreciate your taking the job of tutor and coach as you start your coaching session.
The heel command is among the most elementary, and one of the simplest to educate.
Begin by putting the dog or young dog in a correctly fitted coaching collar. Be certain to follow the directions for fitting and sizing the colour to make sure that it works as intended. Start to walk and permit your dog to stroll beside you. If the dog starts to pull, delicately pull on the leash.
This in turn will tighten the coaching collar and correct the dog. I the opposite problem happens and the dog lags behind, the owner should delicately inspire it till it is walking beside the owner. Once the dog has mastered heeling at a decent pace, the owner should slow their pace and permit the dog to adjust together with it.
Ultimately, walking along and changing pace regularly will bolster the lesson the dog must walk at the heel of the handler. From heeling, the very next step should always be to halt on command. As you are walking, stop and watch you dog. Others may need the reminder of the leash and the coaching collar.
After the halt on command has been mastered, the handler should inspire the dog to sit on command too. Often, after this walk, halt, sit process has been done a couple of times, the dog will start to sit on his very own every time he stops. Naturally, it's very important to provide great praise, and maybe even a treat, each time the dog does as he's expected.
Socialising your Dog
A properly socialised dog is a totally happy dog, and fantastic to be around for both humans and animals. A dog that is correctly socialised will not be afraid of nor assertive towards either animals or humans. A properly socialised dog will take each novel experience and impulse in walk, and not become afraid or pushy.
Incorrectly socialised dogs are also unable to acclimatize to new scenarios. The standard situation like a trip to the vets or to a chum's house can quickly stress the dog out and lead to all sorts of issues. Socialization is best done when the tiny dog is intensely young, perhaps around 12 weeks of age. There are so definite do's and don't when it boils down to properly socializing any young dog. Make every one of the socialization events as pleasing and non threatening for the puppydog as practical. If a puppy's first experience with any novel experience is an evil one, it will be tough to undo that in the puppy's mind. In a considerable number of cases, an early stress can morph into a dread that will endure for an entire life. It is better to take it slowly and avoid having the baby dog become frightened or hurt. Try inviting your buddies over to meet the new puppy. Try and uncloak the tiny dog to places where they will be tons of people and heaps of numerous activity going on.
Take the baby dog for frequent short rides in the vehicle. Introduce your tiny pup to a variety of items that would be unfamiliar. The pup should be exposed to standard items like bags, boxes, vacuum cleaners, umbrellas, hats, as an example. Permit and spur the dog dog to explore these things and see that he has almost nothing to fear from them. Get the dog used to a variety of objects by re-arranging familiar ones.
Your groomer and your vet with many thanks for this.
Introduce the baby dog to standard items round the house, for instance steps. Also introduce the baby dog dog to the collar and leash, so he is going to be alright with those things. There are naturally some things to keep clear of when socializing a puppydog.
Don't place the tiny young dog on the ground when strange animals are present.
When the baby dog shows fear, it is common to try to sooth it, but this can bolster the fear based behavior and worsen it. Since biting is frequently a fear based behavior, reinforcing fear can create issues with biting. Don't force or rush the socialization process. It's important to allow the tiny dog to socialize at his own pace. There is a short window in which to start the socialization process.
Thursday, July 29, 2010
Some Basic Things to Know Before You Bring a Dog Into Your Home
Regardless where you choose to get your dog, whether it be a breeder, animal shelter or from someone who rescues and fosters animals, there are some things you want to be concerned with to ensure your dog is as healthy as she or he can be before she or he even steps one paw in your home.
• Are their shots current?
- At minimum they should have rabies and distemper
- Puppies purchased from a breeder or rescued at a young age, prior to 16 weeks will not have had a rabies shot.
- They should have DPPH (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, and Parvovirus)
• Have they been spayed or neutered?
- Unless you intend to breed your dog, he or she should be altered. There is much debate about the age for this. Some literature suggests this should occur by six months and others suggest that a female (yes commonly referred to as a bitch) should be spayed after her first heat to avoid uterine cancer. You will want to read literature from advocating both perspectives and make the determination that is best for you.
- Again, if your dog is less than six months old, chances are, neither a male nor a female will have been spayed. There is an exception to this. Most shelters will not release an animal for adoption until he or she has been altered. Their jobs are difficult enough trying to keep the animal homeless population down; they aren't about to add to the problem.
• Ensure they don't have worms and parasites
- Whether they're from the shelter, a rescuer or a breeder, all dogs eat myriad of things, including feces (one's own, other dog's and cat's) that give them parasites
- Don't assume because your dog is from "a top breeder" he or she is immune to worms and parasites
Breeders, unlike shelters, are not mandated by the same city and state regulatory agencies and some are not very clean or ethical. Some breeders admit to inbreeding - father/daughter, mother/son, brother/sister and see nothing wrong with it. In their view, it's all to ensure the "champion blood line" is preserved. If this is the case, you would hate to learn that because of inbreeding your pet suffers from:
• Hip dysplasia
- Very common in German Shepherds (GSDs), Huskies, Akitas and other large breeds
• Neurological problems and has seizures
- Very common in English Springer Spaniels
• Retinal problems and/or deafness
- Can occur any breed
• Difficulty breathing easily and is prone to allergies and asthma
- Pugs sadly present with this often
• Overheats easily
- Pekingese are well-known to suffer from this
It's important to do your homework, wherever, regardless where you feel it's best to find your beloved animal companion. These are just a few of the examples to look for with respect to breed and known problems that can occur in any dog. If you don't do your homework, you run the risk of getting an animal prone to problems and being unsure what to do. This is by no means a suggestion to find another breed, especially if your heart is set on a particular one. It's merely a guide to share so you can go in with eyes wide open.
• Are their shots current?
- At minimum they should have rabies and distemper
- Puppies purchased from a breeder or rescued at a young age, prior to 16 weeks will not have had a rabies shot.
- They should have DPPH (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parainfluenza, and Parvovirus)
• Have they been spayed or neutered?
- Unless you intend to breed your dog, he or she should be altered. There is much debate about the age for this. Some literature suggests this should occur by six months and others suggest that a female (yes commonly referred to as a bitch) should be spayed after her first heat to avoid uterine cancer. You will want to read literature from advocating both perspectives and make the determination that is best for you.
- Again, if your dog is less than six months old, chances are, neither a male nor a female will have been spayed. There is an exception to this. Most shelters will not release an animal for adoption until he or she has been altered. Their jobs are difficult enough trying to keep the animal homeless population down; they aren't about to add to the problem.
• Ensure they don't have worms and parasites
- Whether they're from the shelter, a rescuer or a breeder, all dogs eat myriad of things, including feces (one's own, other dog's and cat's) that give them parasites
- Don't assume because your dog is from "a top breeder" he or she is immune to worms and parasites
Breeders, unlike shelters, are not mandated by the same city and state regulatory agencies and some are not very clean or ethical. Some breeders admit to inbreeding - father/daughter, mother/son, brother/sister and see nothing wrong with it. In their view, it's all to ensure the "champion blood line" is preserved. If this is the case, you would hate to learn that because of inbreeding your pet suffers from:
• Hip dysplasia
- Very common in German Shepherds (GSDs), Huskies, Akitas and other large breeds
• Neurological problems and has seizures
- Very common in English Springer Spaniels
• Retinal problems and/or deafness
- Can occur any breed
• Difficulty breathing easily and is prone to allergies and asthma
- Pugs sadly present with this often
• Overheats easily
- Pekingese are well-known to suffer from this
It's important to do your homework, wherever, regardless where you feel it's best to find your beloved animal companion. These are just a few of the examples to look for with respect to breed and known problems that can occur in any dog. If you don't do your homework, you run the risk of getting an animal prone to problems and being unsure what to do. This is by no means a suggestion to find another breed, especially if your heart is set on a particular one. It's merely a guide to share so you can go in with eyes wide open.
Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Lead Training a Puppy - 7 Simple Steps
Your puppy may refuse to budge while on a lead or leash one day, and try to drag you down the street on the same lead the very next day! It's well worth the time to develop this skill with your puppy. Remember, it takes a lot of patience and time when lead training a puppy.
7 Simple Steps for Lead Training A Puppy
1. Place a collar onto your puppy.
Make sure that you can fit no more than two fingers between the collar and your puppy's chest. Check the collar every couple of days and adjust for comfort.
2. Help your puppy become accustomed to the collar before adding a lead or leash.
Allow your puppy to walk in the home and in the garden with the collar alone.
3. Remove the collar from your puppy and replace it with a lightweight lead.
When lead or leash training a puppy, allow him/her to wear this lead for a couple of hours, then place the collar back on. Repeat this process for 3 or 4 more days. This will enable your puppy to become used to both collar and lead.
4. Train your puppy to walk on the lead around your home and garden.
Remove the collar and place the lead on your puppy. Hold out a treat in front of your pup's face and say, "come." Give your puppy the treat if he walks up next to you and does not attempt to pull further ahead. Keep walking and give him a treat about every 15 seconds. Repeat this puppy lead training process for a few minutes a day, four times a day for a week.
5. Take your puppy for a walk.
Take your puppy outside on the road and walk with him at a slow pace.
6. Allow your puppy to roam.
If your puppy begins to pull ahead and yank on the lead, stand still until he stops pulling.
7. Give your pup a treat
Give your puppy a treat and praise when he begins to walk at a comfortable pace and does not pull. Repeat steps 6 and 7 during the walk and on any future walks, until a steady pace is achieved.
As you can see, lead training a dog takes a lot of patience and time, but is quite enjoyable!
7 Simple Steps for Lead Training A Puppy
1. Place a collar onto your puppy.
Make sure that you can fit no more than two fingers between the collar and your puppy's chest. Check the collar every couple of days and adjust for comfort.
2. Help your puppy become accustomed to the collar before adding a lead or leash.
Allow your puppy to walk in the home and in the garden with the collar alone.
3. Remove the collar from your puppy and replace it with a lightweight lead.
When lead or leash training a puppy, allow him/her to wear this lead for a couple of hours, then place the collar back on. Repeat this process for 3 or 4 more days. This will enable your puppy to become used to both collar and lead.
4. Train your puppy to walk on the lead around your home and garden.
Remove the collar and place the lead on your puppy. Hold out a treat in front of your pup's face and say, "come." Give your puppy the treat if he walks up next to you and does not attempt to pull further ahead. Keep walking and give him a treat about every 15 seconds. Repeat this puppy lead training process for a few minutes a day, four times a day for a week.
5. Take your puppy for a walk.
Take your puppy outside on the road and walk with him at a slow pace.
6. Allow your puppy to roam.
If your puppy begins to pull ahead and yank on the lead, stand still until he stops pulling.
7. Give your pup a treat
Give your puppy a treat and praise when he begins to walk at a comfortable pace and does not pull. Repeat steps 6 and 7 during the walk and on any future walks, until a steady pace is achieved.
As you can see, lead training a dog takes a lot of patience and time, but is quite enjoyable!
Dog Psychology - Context
Nothing is separate and apart from nature. Dogs build a bridge and create a direct link and association between the psychological and the physical which is extended and shared with us through nature. Issues which are linked to certain behaviors represent a misalignment with nature. When methods, techniques and devices fail to resolve these unwanted behaviors it is due to a disconnect between the physical, the owner, and this nature shared psychological connection.
A level of emotion can create a separation based it being interpreted as weakness and empowerment through nature. This giving away of power allows a dog to govern his / her own destiny outside and beyond the owners direct influence. A level of influence may be perceived by the owner which is in reality independent and separate from nature. Within this context attempts to influence and direct the dog's mind apart from nature through conditioning, counter conditioning become empty and without meaning. It allows the dog to control and hold onto power. It fails to expose the real issue and probem. It is like putting the quarter into the toll booth to get to the next stop.
To understand behavior beyond response and movement the owner must connect the dots through various influences, links and associations. Leashes, lines, devices, interactions and rituals can be a pathway leading no where if they fail to follow and align with what nature demands through the psychological. The physical is merely an extension. Once the truth is revealed the path becomes clear and the journey short.
A level of emotion can create a separation based it being interpreted as weakness and empowerment through nature. This giving away of power allows a dog to govern his / her own destiny outside and beyond the owners direct influence. A level of influence may be perceived by the owner which is in reality independent and separate from nature. Within this context attempts to influence and direct the dog's mind apart from nature through conditioning, counter conditioning become empty and without meaning. It allows the dog to control and hold onto power. It fails to expose the real issue and probem. It is like putting the quarter into the toll booth to get to the next stop.
To understand behavior beyond response and movement the owner must connect the dots through various influences, links and associations. Leashes, lines, devices, interactions and rituals can be a pathway leading no where if they fail to follow and align with what nature demands through the psychological. The physical is merely an extension. Once the truth is revealed the path becomes clear and the journey short.
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